1996.212 Turban ornament | DMA Staging Content Management System

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

This turban ornament from north India was originally worn only by maharajas (royalty) and their families. Many Indian miniature paintings show rulers with this type of ornament decorating the front of their turbans, often with a feather attached to the top finials. In the 16th and 17th centuries, wearing turban jewels was limited to the emperor and his close family members and retinue, but by the 18th and 19th centuries the custom was considerably more widespread as the right to wear such ornaments was granted to nobility.

While the turban jewel is often associated with India, in fact Mughal turban ornaments were influenced by European designs for jewelry. There were changes in design and style of such ornaments from their introduction in the 16th century up to the 19th century. The Dallas Museum of Art turban ornament, while a product of the 19th century, is typical of earlier designs used by the Mughals. Here rubies and emeralds embellish the gold base creating a sumptuous overall effect, while a red, blue, green and white enamel design decorates the reverse. This ornament is comparable to other examples from Rajasthan.

Adapted from

Catherine Asher, "Turban ornament" in The Arts of India, South East Asia, and the Himalayas, Anne R. Bromberg (Dallas: Dallas Museum of Art; New Haven: Yale University Press, 2013), 141.
DMA Unpublished material 1996.

NOTES

There are conflicting dates listed for this object: TMS and all of the records in the object file list it as 18th century (including the dealer's guarantee.) TMS date updated by SEvans in 2002 and 2007. However, Catherine Asher's text in the 2013 catalogue characterizes the object as 19th century. See above. Please advise.

Catalogue essays

The Arts of India, Southeast Asia, and the Himalayas at the Dallas Museum of Art

Indian Jewelry

Mughal Empire (1526-1858)

Artist/designers

Cultures

Mughal: AAT: 300018939

Geography

Rājasthān: TGN: 7016788

Process/materials

gold (metal): AAT: 300011021

ruby: AAT: 300011082

emerald (mineral): AAT: 300011074

enamel (fused coating): AAT: 300014910

Historical periods

eighteenth century: AAT: 300404512

Individuals

Subject terms

turbans: AAT: 300046127

jewelry: AAT: 300209286

jewelry worn on the head: AAT: 300209301

RELATED OBJECTS

PROVENANCE

From 1996: Dallas Museum of Art, gift of David T. Owsley through the Alvin and Lucy Owsley Foundation [1]

Before 1996: Ernst Egon von Lixfeld, Scottsdale, Az. [2]

[1] See Committee on Collections Record (dated December 17, 1996, copy in object file).

[2] A letter from Kay Johnson of the Dallas Museum of Art to Ernst Egon von Lixfeld (dated January 22, 1997) documents that the turban ornament was in the collection of von Lixfeld prior to its acquisition by the Dallas Museum of Art.

AUDIO ASSETS

VIDEO ASSETS

IMAGE ASSETS

WEB RESOURCES

The Victoria & Albert Museum~ See another example of a turban ornament.

ARCHIVAL RESOURCES

FUN FACTS

Generally only men wore turban jewels. In a few instance, however, women received permission to don turban jewels in the late 17th century Mughal court, but the practice was probably limited.

TEACHING IDEAS

RULES

Apply to objects where number equals 1996.212

General Description

This turban ornament from north India was originally worn only by maharajas (royalty) and their families. Many Indian miniature paintings show rulers with this type of ornament decorating the front of their turbans, often with a feather attached to the top finials. In the 16th and 17th centuries, wearing turban jewels was limited to the emperor and his close family members and retinue, but by the 18th and 19th centuries the custom was considerably more widespread as the right to wear such ornaments was granted to nobility.

While the turban jewel is often associated with India, in fact Mughal turban ornaments were influenced by European designs for jewelry. There were changes in design and style of such ornaments from their introduction in the 16th century up to the 19th century. The Dallas Museum of Art turban ornament, while a product of the 19th century, is typical of earlier designs used by the Mughals. Here rubies and emeralds embellish the gold base creating a sumptuous overall effect, while a red, blue, green and white enamel design decorates the reverse. This ornament is comparable to other examples from Rajasthan.