2005.41 Overskirt with wavy edge (ntshakakot)


GENERAL DESCRIPTION  
Aristocratic women wore a skirt like this one as a wrapper over an even longer skirt on very special occasions. They secured the skirts with a belt embroidered with cowries, which served as currency before the introduction of coins and paper money. The skirts were produced in stages by male weavers and female embroiders and were expensive to obtain.  

This overskirt appliquéd with raffia cloth patches and imported cotton ticking has a cut-pile border edged with an encased flexible reed. First, men wove the raffia cloth, and then women embroidered patches. An early visitor to the Kuba Kingdom noted that patches functioned both as decoration and to patch holes that resulted from the raffia cloth being pounded until it was supple. The patches were named according to their shapes. For example, the L or comma shape is called shina mboa (“the tail of a dog”). In Western countries, ticking was used to cover mattresses, but in Africa, it was a luxury item.

Adapted from
  • Roslyn Walker, The Arts of Africa at the Dallas Museum of Art (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2009),  248-249
  • Roslyn Walker, Add to, Take Away: Artistry and Innovation in African Textiles, Label text, 2014.

NOTES

Catalogue essays

Artist/designers

Cultures

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RELATED OBJECTS 

PROVENANCE
2005: Dallas Museum of Art, purchased from Andres Moraga, Berkeley, California

The main source for this provenance is the copy of the invoice dated March 23, 2005, in the Collections Records object file (2005.41). 

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Apply to objects where number equals 2005.41

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General Description
 
Aristocratic women wore a skirt like this one as a wrapper over an even longer skirt on very special occasions. They secured the skirts with a belt embroidered with cowries, which served as currency before the introduction of coins and paper money. The skirts were produced in stages by male weavers and female embroiders and were expensive to obtain.  

This overskirt appliquéd with raffia cloth patches and imported cotton ticking has a cut-pile border edged with an encased flexible reed. First, men wove the raffia cloth, and then women embroidered patches. An early visitor to the Kuba Kingdom noted that patches functioned both as decoration and to patch holes that resulted from the raffia cloth being pounded until it was supple. The patches were named according to their shapes. For example, the L or comma shape is called shina mboa (“the tail of a dog”). In Western countries, ticking was used to cover mattresses, but in Africa, it was a luxury item.

Adapted from
  • Roslyn Walker, The Arts of Africa at the Dallas Museum of Art (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2009),  248-249
  • Roslyn Walker, Add to, Take Away: Artistry and Innovation in African Textiles, Label text, 2014.

Fun Facts

Archival Resources

Web Resources
 

Notes

Catalogue essays

Artist/designers

Cultures

Geography 

Process/materials

Historical periods

Individuals

Subject terms

RELATED OBJECTS 

PROVENANCE
2005: Dallas Museum of Art, purchased from Andres Moraga, Berkeley, California

The main source for this provenance is the copy of the invoice dated March 23, 2005, in the Collections Records object file (2005.41). 

AUDIO ASSETS 

VIDEO ASSETS

rules
Apply To
Objects
number
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2005.41
tags
#draft
#completed
%copyedited_Gail
women: AAT: 300025943
%Archived
@Bilal-Gore
#routed
*Arts of Africa
textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063
Democratic Republic of the Congo (nation): TGN: 1000159
skirts (garments / refrajo / corte): AAT: 300209932
embroidering: AAT: 300053653
cotton (fiber): AAT: 300183670
pile (textile component): AAT: 300227868
plain weave (tabby / process): AAT: 300312167
Kuba: AAT: 300016310
appliqué (technique): AAT: 300053646
aristocrats: AAT: 300236021
aristocracy (social class): AAT: 300055484
wool (hair material): AAT: 300014074
raffia (fiber): AAT: 300014051
plant fibers: AAT: 300014031
palm fiber: AAT: 300014049
source file
object_notes_2_b-0446.xml.nores