2005.70 Coat (chapan)


GENERAL DESCRIPTION  
The textiles of Uzbekistan in Central Asia are often designed with dazzling and forceful patterns in bright colors. The flamboyance of these works is often close to the dynamic red and gold garments of India, with their brilliant multicolored designs. Here, the red, maroon, teal, and yellow shapes were created with ikat weaving, the method of using resist-dyed threads in textiles. In Uzbekistan, the popular ikat-covered fabrics were called abr, or "clouds" because of the way one motif faded into another across the garment. The dynamic composition and glowing effect of this silk coat required a collaborative effort with as many as eight specialist dyers and weavers. Worn on everyday and ceremonial occasions, the coat, with its wide sleeves and broad cut, was often worn in layers, with the newest and most luxurious coat on top.

The formation of Soviet Uzbekistan in 1924 caused a great decline in the production of true ikat silk fabrics; however, their colorful and blurred patterns were so popular that many less expensive fabrics have been printed with ikat motifs.

Adapted from
  • Carol Robbins, Label text, 2008. 
  • Label text, 2018. 

NOTES
Acquisition justification notes that the lining is Russian trade cloth - printed cotton. 

Catalogue essays

Artist/designers

Cultures

Geography 
Uzbekistan: TGN: 7006661

Process/materials
ikat: AAT: 300249861
resist dyeing (textile dyeing processes and techniques): AAT: 300053053
silk (general_animal material): AAT: 300191700
silk (textile): AAT: 300243428
warp-faced (weave / textile weaving processes and techniques): DMA
weaving: AAT: 300053642

Historical periods

Individuals

Subject terms
abstract: AAT: 300108127
bright (color attribute): AAT: 300311030
clouds: AAT: 300343840
coats (garments): AAT: 300046143
textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063

RELATED OBJECTS 

PROVENANCE 
Until 2005: Sally R. and William C. Estes, Dallas TX

2005: Dallas Museum of Art, gift of Sally R. and William C. Estes

The main source for this provenance is the deed of gift dated September 28, 2005, copy in Dallas Museum of Art collections records object file.  

AUDIO ASSETS 

VIDEO ASSETS

IMAGE ASSETS

WEB RESOURCES 

ARCHIVAL RESOURCES

FUN FACTS

TEACHING IDEAS

RULES
Apply to objects where number equals 2005.70

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General Description
 
The textiles of Uzbekistan in Central Asia are often designed with dazzling and forceful patterns in bright colors. The flamboyance of these works is often close to the dynamic red and gold garments of India, with their brilliant multicolored designs. Here, the red, maroon, teal, and yellow shapes were created with ikat weaving, the method of using resist-dyed threads in textiles. In Uzbekistan, the popular ikat-covered fabrics were called abr, or "clouds" because of the way one motif faded into another across the garment. The dynamic composition and glowing effect of this silk coat required a collaborative effort with as many as eight specialist dyers and weavers. Worn on everyday and ceremonial occasions, the coat, with its wide sleeves and broad cut, was often worn in layers, with the newest and most luxurious coat on top.

The formation of Soviet Uzbekistan in 1924 caused a great decline in the production of true ikat silk fabrics; however, their colorful and blurred patterns were so popular that many less expensive fabrics have been printed with ikat motifs.

Adapted from
  • Carol Robbins, Label text, 2008. 
  • Label text, 2018. 

Fun Facts

Archival Resources

Web Resources
 

Notes
Acquisition justification notes that the lining is Russian trade cloth - printed cotton. 

Catalogue essays

Artist/designers

Cultures

Geography 
Uzbekistan: TGN: 7006661

Process/materials
ikat: AAT: 300249861
resist dyeing (textile dyeing processes and techniques): AAT: 300053053
silk (general_animal material): AAT: 300191700
silk (textile): AAT: 300243428
warp-faced (weave / textile weaving processes and techniques): DMA
weaving: AAT: 300053642

Historical periods

Individuals

Subject terms
abstract: AAT: 300108127
bright (color attribute): AAT: 300311030
clouds: AAT: 300343840
coats (garments): AAT: 300046143
textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063

RELATED OBJECTS 

PROVENANCE 
Until 2005: Sally R. and William C. Estes, Dallas TX

2005: Dallas Museum of Art, gift of Sally R. and William C. Estes

The main source for this provenance is the deed of gift dated September 28, 2005, copy in Dallas Museum of Art collections records object file.  

AUDIO ASSETS 

VIDEO ASSETS

rules
Apply To
Objects
number
Equals
2005.70
tags
#draft
#completed
%copyedited_Gail
%Archived
abstract: AAT: 300108127
*Arts of Asia
@Courtney
#routed
textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063
clouds: AAT: 300343840
weaving: AAT: 300053642
silk (textile): AAT: 300243428
ikat: AAT: 300249861
coats (garments): AAT: 300046143
resist dyeing (textile dyeing processes and techniques): AAT: 300053053
silk (general_animal material): AAT: 300191700
warp-faced (weave / textile weaving processes and techniques): DMA
bright (color attribute): AAT: 300311030
Uzbekistan: TGN: 7006661
source file
object_notes_2_b-0251.xml.nores