1991.373 Mantle or carrying cloth (awayo) (Bolivia, 20th century)

Weaving remains a specialized art in the Andes, with the continued production of vibrant patterned ponchos, mantles, carrying cloths, and hats, as well as slings and coca bags (chuspa). Arguably the garment type least affected by the Spanish Colonial dress codes, the mantle, or lliclla, continues to be worn by Andean women. Mantles are wrapped around the shoulders, generally with the stripes horizontal. They are fastened together at the front with pins, or tupu, that have acquired different shapes and elaborations through time. This mantle represents a simple but standard type from the Macha regions in southwestern Bolivia with colorful spotted chevrons that extend along the central bands.

Kimberly L. Jones, PhD, Inca: Conquests of the Andes / Los Incas y las conquistas de los Andes, Label text, 2015.

Bolivia (nation): TGN: 1000046

Macha (inhabited place): TGN: 1020338

textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063

textile materials: AAT: 300231565

wool (hair material): AAT: 300014074

wool (textile): AAT: 300243430

weaving: AAT: 300053642

warp: AAT: 300227930

weft: AAT: 300227934

mantles (lliclla / outerwear): AAT: 300212298

brown (color): AAT: 300127490

cream (color): AAT: 300266242

white (color): AAT: 300129784

yellow (color): AAT: 300127794

red (color): AAT: 300126225

orange (color): AAT: 300126734

geometric patterns: AAT: 300165213,

geometric motifs: AAT: 300009764

stripes: AAT: 300010230

bands (decorative): DMA

lines (geometric concept): AAT: 300056279

zigzags (geometric patterns): AAT: 300165028

diamonds (motifs): AAT:  300009791

chevrons (motifs): AAT: 300009766

dots (geometric motif): AAT: 300010145

shoulders (animal or human components): DMA

pinning (fastening / assembling): AAT: 300053018

pins (fasteners): AAT: 300036423

tupu (decorative pins): DMA

Quechua: AAT: 300017928

Until 1988: Stuart A. Mace, Toklat With These Hands Gallery, Aspen [1], [2]

1988-1991: Sarah Dorsey Hudson, Dallas, purchased from the above [1], [2], [3], [4]

From 1991: Dallas Museum of Art, gift of the above [2], [3], [4]

[1] The main source for this provenance is letter from Carol Robbins, Curator of Textiles and Asssociate in New World Textiles at the Dallas Museum of Art, to Stuart A. Mace (dated October 27, 1988, copy in Dallas Museum of Art Collections Records Object File). Exceptions and other supporting documents are noted.

[2] The main source for this provenance is existing information in TMS. Exceptions and other supporting documents are noted.

[3] The main source for this provenance is Acquisition Record (dated December 31, 1991, copy in Dallas Museum of Art Collections Records Object File). Exceptions and other supporting documents are noted.

[4] The main source for this provenance is Deed of Gift (dated December 30, 1991, copy in Dallas Museum of Art Collections Records Object File). Exceptions and other supporting documents are noted.

Apply to objects where number equals 1991.373