1989.W.2435 Tunic fragment with diamond waistband (Peru, Inka)

This “diamond waistband” tunic fragment reflects the high standardization of Inca tapestry textiles. It bears a zigzag embroidery at the base, as well as a striped selvedge, or edge, completion. Unlike the other tapestry-woven Inca uncu, however, the “diamond waistband” tunics regularly utilize cotton warps with camelid fiber wefts. The cotton use may suggest a coastal origin, as well as potentially signify lesser prestige in Inca society. Diamond waistband tunics have been recovered from both high-altitude capacocha burials and coastal ritual centers, such as Pachacamac, confirming their status in Late Horizon (1400-1532 CE) textile production. Fragments of these tunics were preserved and reused—for example, as coca bags—suggesting that the diamond band maintained social value beyond the tunic itself.

Kimberly L. Jones, PhD, Inca: Conquests of the Andes / Los Incas y las conquistas de los Andes, Label text, 2015.

Inka (Inca): AAT: 300017326

Inca horizon: AAT: 300017352

Peru (nation): TGN: 1000056

Inca Empire: TGN: 6002741

textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063

textile materials: AAT: 300231565

camelidae (camelid) fiber: AAT: 300310434

cotton (fiber): AAT: 300183670

weaving: AAT: 300053642

tapestry (process): AAT: 300061981

interlocked tapestry: AAT: 300228526

embroidering: AAT: 300053653

warp: AAT: 300227930

weft: AAT: 300227934

Late Horizon Period: AAT: 300017332

tunics (main garments): AAT: 300209869

fragments (object portions): AAT: 300117130

diamond waistband tunic (motifs / main garments): DMA

brown (color): AAT: 300127490

cream (color): AAT: 300266242

red (color): AAT: 300126225

yellow (color): AAT: 300127794

diamonds (motifs): AAT:  300009791

bands (decorative): DMA

stripes: AAT: 300010230

zigzags (geometric patterns): AAT: 300165028

step pattern: AAT: 300010229

stepped frets (meanders (patterns)/motifs): AAT: 300010171

standardization: AAT: 300056088

capacocha (qhapac hucha / sacrificial ritual): DMA

Pachacamac: AAT: 300017302

Pachacamac (deserted settlement): AAT: 7032402

coca bags (costume accessories): DMA

coca (plants / Erythroxylum (genus) Erythroxylaceae (family)): AAT: 300411778

Until 1976: Nora and John Wise, New York [1]

1976-1989: Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, on long-term loan from the above [1], [2]

From 1989: Dallas Museum of Art, the Nora and John Wise Collection, bequest of Nora Wise [1]

[1] The main source for this provenance is existing information in TMS. Exceptions and other supporting documents are noted.

[2] The name of the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, founded in 1933, was changed to the Dallas Museum of Art in 1983.

Apply to objects where number equals 1989.W.2435