1982.W.1863 Tunic with checkerboard pattern and stepped yoke (Peru, Chimú)


GENERAL DESCRIPTION
This impressive tunic is an unusually long example from the north coast of Peru. The vertical stripes are composed of cream and gray-blue cotton, woven in double cloth and floating warps. The latter create the color alternation across the stripes and through the incorporated designs. Small brocaded birds enhance this patterned layout, which is differentiated across the two halves of the tunic.

Along the shoulders and base, there are decorative bands of dyed camelid fiber. The decorative panels vary slightly; however, each generally boasts a row of frontal figures with crested headdresses. The headdresses are composed of a triangular cap with two feathered extensions that angle down to either side. This cap shape suggests a pre-Inca Chimú context, while the crested headdress figures render prestige to this long tunic.

Adapted from
Kimberly L. Jones, PhD, Inca: Conquests of the Andes / Los Incas y las conquistas de los Andes, Label text, 2015.

NOTES
  • Chimú, Late Intermediate Period, c. A.D. 1300-1470, updated by KJones in TMS on 10/15/13, 12/23/13, and 01/05/16.
  • Updated geography and dates in TMS to reflect Inca label -- Perú: north coast, A.D. 1100–1440.
  • Fun Facts Source: Junius B. Bird Report, 1/26/1976, p. 8, TMS, Notes / Text Entries, Attribution.

Catalogue essays

Artist/designers

Cultures
Chimú: AAT: 300017316

Geography
Peru (nation): TGN: 1000056

Process/materials
textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063
textile materials: AAT: 300231565
cotton (fiber): AAT: 300183670
camelidae (camelid) fiber: AAT: 300310434
weaving: AAT: 300053642
plain weave (process): AAT: 300312167
tabby (process): AAT: 300312167
warp: AAT: 300227930
weft: AAT: 300227934
supplementary-weft (textile components/textile weaving techniques by patterning): DMA
pattern weft (supplementary weft/textile components): AAT: 300227866
weft patterning (supplementary weft/textile weaving techniques by patterning): AAT: 300228486
weft wrapping (techniques): AAT: 300228560
brocade (weaving technique): AAT: 300053648
brocading (weft patterning / weaving technique): AAT: 300053648
fringe (trimming): AAT: 300227830

Historical periods
Late Intermediate Period: AAT: 300017313

Individuals

Subject terms
tunics (main garments): AAT: 300209869
geometric motifs: AAT: 300009764
stripes: AAT: 300010230
red (color): AAT: 300126225
yellow (color): AAT: 300127794
brown (color): AAT: 300127490
cream (color): AAT: 300266242
grayish blue (color): AAT: 300129673
blue (color): AAT: 300129361
birds (motifs): AAT: 300375751
bands (decorative): DMA
figures: AAT: 300189808
crescent (motif): AAT: 300165510
headdress: AAT: 300046023
triangles (polygons): AAT: 300009806
triangular (polygonal): AAT: 300263833
caps (headgear): AAT: 300046094
feathers (animal components): AAT: 300400474

RELATED OBJECTS

PROVENANCE
Until 1982: Nora and John Wise, New York [1]

From 1982: Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, the Nora and John Wise Collection, gift of Nora Wise [1], [2]

[1] The main source for this provenance was existing provenance information in TMS. Exceptions and other supporting documents are noted.

[2] The name of the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, founded in 1933, was changed to the Dallas Museum of Art in 1983.

AUDIO ASSETS

VIDEO ASSETS

IMAGE ASSETS

WEB RESOURCES

ARCHIVAL RESOURCES

FUN FACTS
  • In his 1976 report, Junius B. Bird, curator emeritus of South American archaeology at the American Museum of Natural History, notes: "Period Uncertain. **1344 Transposed warp pattern in field, borders with wool, technically interesting as an example of a system used in the 3rd millennium B.C.E. on the Peruvian coast in twined fabrics."

TEACHING IDEAS

RULES
Apply to objects where number equals 1982.W.1863


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General Description
This impressive tunic is an unusually long example from the north coast of Peru. The vertical stripes are composed of cream and gray-blue cotton, woven in double cloth and floating warps. The latter create the color alternation across the stripes and through the incorporated designs. Small brocaded birds enhance this patterned layout, which is differentiated across the two halves of the tunic.

Along the shoulders and base, there are decorative bands of dyed camelid fiber. The decorative panels vary slightly; however, each generally boasts a row of frontal figures with crested headdresses. The headdresses are composed of a triangular cap with two feathered extensions that angle down to either side. This cap shape suggests a pre-Inca Chimú context, while the crested headdress figures render prestige to this long tunic.

Adapted from
Kimberly L. Jones, PhD, Inca: Conquests of the Andes / Los Incas y las conquistas de los Andes, Label text, 2015.

Fun Facts
  • In his 1976 report, Junius B. Bird, curator emeritus of South American archaeology at the American Museum of Natural History, notes: "Period Uncertain. **1344 Transposed warp pattern in field, borders with wool, technically interesting as an example of a system used in the 3rd millennium B.C.E. on the Peruvian coast in twined fabrics."

Archival Resources

Web Resources

Notes
  • Chimú, Late Intermediate Period, c. A.D. 1300-1470, updated by KJones in TMS on 10/15/13, 12/23/13, and 01/05/16.
  • Updated geography and dates in TMS to reflect Inca label -- Perú: north coast, A.D. 1100–1440.
  • Fun Facts Source: Junius B. Bird Report, 1/26/1976, p. 8, TMS, Notes / Text Entries, Attribution.

Catalogue essays

Artist/designers

Cultures
Chimú: AAT: 300017316

Geography
Peru (nation): TGN: 1000056

Process/materials
textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063
textile materials: AAT: 300231565
cotton (fiber): AAT: 300183670
camelidae (camelid) fiber: AAT: 300310434
weaving: AAT: 300053642
plain weave (process): AAT: 300312167
tabby (process): AAT: 300312167
warp: AAT: 300227930
weft: AAT: 300227934
supplementary-weft (textile components/textile weaving techniques by patterning): DMA
pattern weft (supplementary weft/textile components): AAT: 300227866
weft patterning (supplementary weft/textile weaving techniques by patterning): AAT: 300228486
weft wrapping (techniques): AAT: 300228560
brocade (weaving technique): AAT: 300053648
brocading (weft patterning / weaving technique): AAT: 300053648
fringe (trimming): AAT: 300227830

Historical periods
Late Intermediate Period: AAT: 300017313

Individuals

Subject terms
tunics (main garments): AAT: 300209869
geometric motifs: AAT: 300009764
stripes: AAT: 300010230
red (color): AAT: 300126225
yellow (color): AAT: 300127794
brown (color): AAT: 300127490
cream (color): AAT: 300266242
grayish blue (color): AAT: 300129673
blue (color): AAT: 300129361
birds (motifs): AAT: 300375751
bands (decorative): DMA
figures: AAT: 300189808
crescent (motif): AAT: 300165510
headdress: AAT: 300046023
triangles (polygons): AAT: 300009806
triangular (polygonal): AAT: 300263833
caps (headgear): AAT: 300046094
feathers (animal components): AAT: 300400474

RELATED OBJECTS

PROVENANCE
Until 1982: Nora and John Wise, New York [1]

From 1982: Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, the Nora and John Wise Collection, gift of Nora Wise [1], [2]

[1] The main source for this provenance was existing provenance information in TMS. Exceptions and other supporting documents are noted.

[2] The name of the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, founded in 1933, was changed to the Dallas Museum of Art in 1983.

AUDIO ASSETS

VIDEO ASSETS

rules
Apply To
Objects
number
Equals
1982.W.1863
tags
#draft
#completed
@Higgins
*Arts of the Americas
%copyedited_Gail
figures (representations): AAT: 300189808
caps (headgear): AAT: 300046094
%Archived
birds (motifs): AAT: 300375751
geometric motifs: AAT: 300009764
headdresses: AAT: 300046023
stripes: AAT: 300010230
yellow (color): AAT: 300127794
blue (color): AAT: 300129361
red (color): AAT: 300126225
textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063
triangles (polygons): AAT: 300009806
crescent (motif): AAT: 300165510
bands (decorative): DMA
Peru (nation): TGN: 1000056
brown (color): AAT: 300127490
Late Intermediate period (Pre-Columbian Andean styles and periods): AAT: 300017313
cream (color): AAT: 300266242
feathers (animal components): AAT: 300400474
weaving: AAT: 300053642
Chimú: AAT: 300017316
Chimú (former nation/state/empire): TGN: 8698270
textile materials: AAT: 300231565
warp: AAT: 300227930
weft: AAT: 300227934
cotton (fiber): AAT: 300183670
plain weave (tabby / process): AAT: 300312167
weft wrapping (techniques): AAT: 300228560
tunics (main garments): AAT: 300209869
brocade (weaving technique): AAT: 300053648
brocading (weft patterning / weaving technique): AAT: 300053648
supplementary-weft (textile components/textile weaving techniques by patterning): DMA
weft patterning (supplementary weft/textile weaving techniques by patterning): AAT: 300228486
camelidae (camelid) fiber: AAT: 300310434
fringe (trimming): AAT: 300227830
grayish blue (color): AAT: 300129673
pattern weft (supplementary weft/textile components): AAT: 300227866
tabby (process): AAT: 300312167
tabby (textile): AAT: 300227906
triangular (polygonal): AAT: 300263833
source file
object_notes_3_b-0159.xml.nores