1982.W.2161 Patchwork mantle (Peru, Central Coast)

Andean weavers, past to present, are renowned for their technical skill and diversity in textile production. This impressive patchwork textile comprises two woven panels seamed together along the center. Alternating squares of white and brown plain-weave cotton fabric are connected through double interlocked and dovetailed threads, demonstrating the high technical skill of the weaver. Based on surviving textiles and their representation on other media, such checkerboard patterns were common in the Andes for hundreds of years. The subsequent Inca Empire (1476-1534), in fact, would employ dramatic plain and decorated checkerboard patterns in their military and elite male tunics.

Kimberly L. Jones, PhD, Label text, 2017, A. H. Meadows Galleries.

Pre-Columbian (American): AAT: 300016619

Native Andean: AAT: 300017918

Native Central Andean styles (Native Andean / Native South American): AAT:300017919

Peru (nation): TGN: 1000056

Andes (mountain system/South America): TGN: 7016589

textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063

textile materials: AAT: 300231565

cotton (fiber): AAT: 300183670

weaving: AAT: 300053642

plain weave (process): AAT: 300312167

tabby (process): AAT: 300312167

tabby (textile): AAT: 300227906

warp: AAT: 300227930

weft: AAT: 300227934

four-selvedged (textile components): DMA

interlocked join (textile weaving processes and techniques): DMA

dovetail join (textile weaving processes and techniques): DMA

interlocked tapestry: AAT: 300228526

dovetailed tapestry (process): AAT: 300228510

double cloth (double weave): AAT: 300227826

Late Intermediate period (Pre-Columbian Andean styles and periods): AAT: 300017313

mantles (lliclla / outerwear): AAT: 300212298

shawls (perraje / outwear): AAT: 300209991

fragments (object portions): AAT: 300117130

checker pattern (checkerboard): AAT: 300010111

step pattern: AAT: 300010229

stepped frets (meanders (patterns)/motifs): AAT: 300010171

geometric motifs: AAT: 300009764

geometric patterns: AAT: 300165213

geometric shape: AAT: 300263819

squares (geometric figures): AAT: 300055637

cream (color): AAT: 300266242

brown (color): AAT: 300127490

patchwork (assembling / additive and joining process): AAT: 300249330

technology: AAT: 300056069

textile working equipment: AAT: 300163224

panels (surface components): AAT: 300069079

seams (components by general context): AAT: 300228472

Inca (Inka): AAT: 300017326

Inca Empire: TGN: 6002741

Inca horizon: AAT: 300017352

military uniforms: AAT: 300248030

nobility (nobles / aristocracy): AAT: 300025942

tunics (main garments): AAT: 300209869

male: AAT: 300189559

men (male humans): AAT: 300025928

Until 1982: Nora and John Wise, New York [1]

From 1982: Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, the Nora and John Wise Collection, gift of Nora Wise [1], [2]

[1] The main source for this provenance was existing provenance information in TMS. Exceptions and other supporting documents are noted.

[2] The name of the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, founded in 1933, was changed to the Dallas Museum of Art in 1983.

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