1989.45 Wraparound skirt (_kain panjang_)

Finely drawn stylized animals, plants, fruits, and abstract motifs form a lively procession on the multiple zigzag bands called lenkolenko. The mythical kylin (dog-lion) and phoenix, as well as the pomegranate, are Chinese symbols for fertility. Shrimp and other sea creatures are common features on batik from Cirebon, a coastal town. 

The head (kepala) features a broad decorative band (papan) filled with flowers and birds in combination with triangles (tumpal) on a dark red ground filled with small star shapes. The tumpal refers to bamboo shoots, which are symbols of fertility and are believed to have talismanic properties. The narrow decorative bands found at the top and bottom edges are called pinggir. That they do not continue the length of the cloth suggests they were not visible when the cloth was worn. This cloth was probably created for the Peranakan Chinese (Indonesians with Chinese ancestry) or Indo-Europeans in the north coast region. 

Cirebon: TGN: 7018012

Indonesia (nation): TGN: 1000116

Java (island/Indonesia): TGN: 7003695

batik: AAT: 300053050

wax (material): AAT: 300014585

cotton (fiber): AAT: 300183670

animals (Animalia kingdom): AAT: 300249395

bamboo (plant): AAT: 300311500

birds (motifs): AAT: 300375751

clothing: AAT: 300266639

coastlines: AAT: 300008734

dye (colorant): AAT: 300013029

fertility: AAT: 300379149

flower (motif): AAT: 300375563

fruit (plant components): AAT: 300011868

geometric patterns: AAT: 300165213

Peranakan (Indonesian regional style): AAT: 300387448

phoenixes: AAT: 300379749

plants (living organisms): AAT: 300132360

pomegranate (fruit): AAT: 300379961

skirts (garments / refrajo / corte): AAT: 300209932

textiles (visual works): AAT: 300014063

triangles (polygons): AAT: 300009806

zigzags (geometric patterns): AAT: 300165028

By 1989: George Kent Watters, Los Angeles

1989: Dallas Museum of Art, purchased from above 

The main source for this provenance is the letter from Linda Ledford of the Dallas Museum of Art to George Kent Watters, dated June 30, 1989, copy in Dallas Museum of Art Collections Records object file. 

Apply to objects where number equals 1989.45