1982.287 Kemben (Breast Cloth)

The typical length (ninety-three and one-half inches) and central narrow lozenge shape mark this batik as a breast cloth (kemben). Combined with a sarong, a breast cloth is most commonly wound from left to right across the upper body, one corner tucked in at the top and the other in at the waist. Although most women today wear a blouse with their sarong, court dance costumes still include a breast cloth. 

A foliage design, perhaps an imitation of the traditional new growth (semen) pattern of curling tendrils, covers the batik. The pointed ends of the undyed central lozenge are decorated with small floral motifs. Short lines called "flames or tongues of fire" edge the border. The foliage pattern was probably created with a cap (metal stamp) before dyeing, most likely with soga brown and indigo. 

Geography 
Central Java (Jawa Tengah): TGN: 1001322
Indonesia (nation): TGN: 1000116
Java (island/Indonesia): TGN: 7003695

Process/materials
batik: AAT: 300053050
cotton (fiber): AAT: 300183670
dye (colorant): AAT: 300013029
wax (material): AAT: 300014585

Subject terms
clothing: AAT: 300266639
flames: AAT: 300009910
floral patterns: AAT: 300010135
foliage (motif): AAT: 300400481
indigo (colorant): AAT: 300013055
lozenges: AAT: 300009791
stamps (marks): AAT: 300262844

Before 1930: the sister of Paul van Katwijk, collected in Java

n.d.: Jerry and Mary Bywaters, Dallas 

From 1982: Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, gift of Jerry and Mary Bywaters in memory of Paul and Viola van Katwijk [1]

The main source for this provenance is the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts Acquisitions Checklist dated February 4, 1983, copy in Dallas Museum of Art Collections Records object file. 

[1]  The name of the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, founded in 1933, was changed to the Dallas Museum of Art in 1983.

Apply to objects where number equals 1982.287